You can eat well in Morocco. Every
city has a choice of restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets. If you
are looking for something exotic, then head for the medina, where
restaurants are usually less expensive. In general, Moroccans are a lot
better at their own cuisine than at international cooking. Moroccan food
is traditionally prepared by women to recipes handed down from mother to
daughter. Men traditionally make the tea and are not often allowed near
the stove. The best food is eaten at home, but if you are not lucky
enough to be invited, the nearest thing to Moroccan home-cooking is one
of the rind restaurants.
Eating Out
During Ramadan many restaurants
in tourist areas remain open, but
visitors should be discreet when eating or drinking during the day.
Breakfast is usually from 7:30 to
10 am, lunch from noon to 2:30 pm
and dinner from 8 to 11 pm, although opening hours are vague.
A meal usually starts with raw or
cooked salads, followed by a tagine
(stew of vegetables or fruits with meat, chicken or fish) or
couscous.
Dessert is usually fresh fruit, or Moroccan pastries with mint tea.
Some Moroccan food takes a long
time to prepare and so needs to be
ordered well in advance, when you book the table.
In most places the dress code is
relaxed, although in more upmarket places in Marrakech and
Casablanca it is a good idea to dress up for the occasion.
Menus are generally written in
French and Arabic, and in English at more touristy places.
Traditionally a Moroccan meal is
eaten with two fingers and the thumb of the right hand. Bread is
served in large quantities and is often used as cutlery to scoop up
food.
Moroccan Restaurants
Most upmarket hotels have both an international and a
Moroccan restaurant (usually better), decorated in traditional style
with banquettes around low, round tables.
Moroccan restaurants are usually the precinct of
tourists,
as locals prefer to eat Moroccan food at home, and French or Italian
food when they go out. A meal in these places is often accompanied
by a floor-show with musicians and a belly dancer.
Some riad restaurants in Marrakech charge a
fixed price for
an evening of delights, which include a steady flow of culinary
pleasures, wine, an exotic décor and a warm ambience, with live
traditional music and dancing shows.
International Cuisine
The French legacy is still strong, usually in the Villes Nouvelles (new
towns), and French eateries range from old-style colonial dives to
upmarket restaurants, often run by expatriots.
Vegetarian Cuisine
Vegetarians can have a hard time eating in Morocco, where
many people find it hard to comprehend the concept.
Most salads are based on vegetables only, but there is a
wide choice. Tagines can be served without meat, but are often
cooked in meat stock or meat fat.
If you are eating in someone's home,
your hosts will usually
serve you
meat even if you have told them you do not eat it, as they will
assume
that you do not eat meat because you cannot afford it. Leave the
meat
if you must, but eat something so as not to offend your hosts.
Markets have plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, as well
as excellent yoghurt to supplement your diet.
Street Food
Moroccans like to eat at gargottes: street stalls and small
cafés that sell inexpensive and often excellent snacks such as
harira soup, salads and brochettes (skewers of meat), merguez (spicy
sausages) and simple tagines.
Tourists are often wary of the hygiene standards in these
places, but if
it's popular with the locals then the food is usually fresh.
Drinks, Wine and Beer
Green tea with mint is the national drink, but Arabic coffee
is also served. Morocco has wonderful oranges so most places sell
fresh orange juice in season. Almond milk and banana with milk are
also popular.
Soft drinks and bottled mineral water are available
everywhere.
Morocco is a Muslim country so, while
alcohol is widely
available in tourist hotels, restaurants and bars, it is generally
not easy to buy it in medinas or in rural areas.
Moroccans who do drink alcohol often prefer a cool
local
beer, either Stork or Flag. Hotels usually have imported beers,
though at double the price of the local brew.
Moroccan wines, mostly from the Meknes region or from Haha
near Essaouira, are a little heavy but quite drinkable. The most
common wines are the red Cabernet, Ksar, Siraoua, the rosé Gris de
Boulaoune and the dry white Special Coquillages. The red Clairet de
Meknés is quite rare but excellent.
Restaurant Prices
Price guides are for a three-course meal per person, excluding drinks
but including taxes and service: £ under 160dh ££ 160-350dh
£££ over 350dh