The souks of Marrakech are a feast for
the senses: the labyrinth of alleys, the mixture of people, the variety
of wares, the colours, the smells and the play of light and shadow
through the roof can be overwhelming. Take it slowly on your first
visit, starting with the main drag. When you return, remember that one
of the attractions is to get lost, so wander into side alleys where
craftsmen make and sell their traditional wares in small workshops.
The easiest way into the souks is through the alley opposite the Café de
France on Djemaa el-Fna.
Stalls in the first covered part of the souk sell nuts, dried fruits and
hand-woven baskets. At the end of this is the main arched entrance to
rue Souk Smarine, the area's principal artery Souk Smarine is broad and
dominated by merchants selling fabrics, kaftans and circumcision outfits
for boys, though this is also a good place for upmarket antiques and
serious carpets. Some 200m down on the right, two alleys lead into the
Rahba Qedima, an open square lined with spice and apothecary stalls. At
the end a passage leads into the Criée Berbére, the Berber market where
slaves were sold until 1912. Now you can buy carpets from all over
Morocco at auctions held around 4-6 pm.
Above: Carpets cover the Criée Berbére, where carpet auctions take
place in the afternoon
For live chameleons, magic potions, tagine spices and baskets head
for the Rahha Qedima
Ý 182 C1
º Shops/stalls: daily 9-1 or 8; many closed Fri 11-4 and public holidays
Craft Souks
Beyond the market, Souk Smarine forks in two; to the right Souk el-Kebir
leads through the leather souk to the Ben Youssef Medersa. The
left fork Souk el-Attarin leads through the Souk des Babouches
(slippers) to the Souk des Teinturiers, where dyers hang colourful wool
to dry, the Souk Chouari (carpenters) and the smoky Souk el-Haddadine,
where blacksmiths forge iron. The area between the two streets is known
as the Kissaria, a covered market that may be locked, as this is
traditionally where more expensive goods such as fine cloth and
jewellery are sold.
TAKING A BREAK
The obvious place to stop for a drink or a snack is on
Djemaa el-Fna, where there is plenty of refreshment choice. If you are already
in the souks then go for tea in the wonderful riad hotels, such as Riad
Tamsna or the Dar Cherifa (Derb Chorfa Lakbir, Mouassine, tel:
(04) 4426463).
SOUKS: INSIDE INFO
Top tips The souks are liveliest around 4-5 pm as the temperature cools,
tourists finish sightseeing and Marrakchis go for their early evening
stroll.
Marrakech can be an expensive place for crafts, no visit the
Ensemble Artisanal (avenue Mohammed V, daily 9 am-1 pm, 3-7 pm) for an idea of
the top prices before some hard bargaining in the souks.
Until recently it took some skill to
enter the souks on your own, but
now with the tourist police at the gates it's much easier. Bear in mind
that whilst you don't need one, if you take a guide or faux-guide into
the souk then prices will be higher to include the guide's commission on
everything you buy.
In more depth To see an authentic souk where Marrakchis shop, take a
petit taxi to Bab Ailen. No one will try to sell you anything
aggressively, but instead stroll through stalls of fishmongers, butchers
and greengrocers, past tiny cafés, women catching up on the news and
children playing in the streets.
