The largest
Koranic school in Morocco rivals the medersa in Fes in splendor. Its
perfectly proportioned courtyard is a marvel of Moorish architecture,
striking an amazing balance between plain surfaces and elaborate
decoration.
The
splendid medersa, built around 1570, was used as a Koranic school and
hostel until 1962 Ben Youssef Medersa
The school took its name from the nearby Mosque of Ben Youssef, which
was built in the 12th century, but almost entirely rebuilt in the 19th
century at half its original size. The medersa was part of the Merenid
Sultan Abou Hassan's extensive educational plan, which included the
Fes
Medersas, but in 1564 it was completely restored by the Saadian
Sultan Abdullah el-Ghalib. It follows the traditional plan with its
central courtyard and a prayer hall, but unlike other medersas, Ben
Youssef's is entered via an inconspicuous portal and a long, dark
corridor. This undoubtedly heightens the pleasure of discovering the
large courtyard bathed in sunlight at the end of the passage. The space,
centred on a large fountain pool and flanked by two rows of pillars, is
intended to inspire a sense of peacefulness. Although rich and
elaborate, with colourful zellij mosaic, stucco and cedar carving, the
decoration never disturbs this tranquillity.
At the back, a beautiful ornamental portal gives way to the prayer hall.
Divided into three aisles by fine marble columns, the room is covered by
a cedar dome surrounded by 24 small windows with detailed stucco work.
The mihrab is decorated with lace-like sculpted plaster.
The medersa was built to house more than 900 students in 150 or so
spartan cells on its first floor. Most cells were grouped around smaller
interior courtyards, lit purely by skylights, but the favourite or most
promising students were treated to the best rooms, overlooking the
magnificent central courtyard.
TAKING A BREAK
Have a fresh juice or a mint tea with Moroccan sweets at the stylish
cafeteria in the courtyard of the nearby Dar Menebhi.
BEN YOUSSEF MEDERSA: INSIDE INFO
Top tips You can keep
your shoes on during the visit, but wear modest clothing
out of respect.
At the
time of writing the medersa was undergoing major restoration work
that could continue for some time. As a result, some parts of the
monument may be under scaffolding, but it's even a pleasure to see
the craftsmen at work.
Hidden gems
Don't forget to have a look at the toilets at the end of the corridor
opposite the entrance: master craftsmen were employed even here.
Not Dead But Sleeping
All Morocco's historic
cities have one or more patron saints, often connected with the creation
of the city. The saint is called moul lablad, the "master of the place",
and his tomb is a place of pilgrimage. Moroccans often use the patron
saint's name when referring to a particular city Marrakech is also
Sab'at Rijal (Seven Saints). Tradition has it that they are not dead but
asleep, and many Muslims come to the city on a pilgrimage to the seven
mausoleums spread all over the medina.
Intricate carved calligraphy.
Fine cedar-wood screens cover windows overlooking the courtyard
Ý 182 C1
* place Ben Youssef, turn left at the end
of Souk el-Kebir
º Daily 9-6
I
Moderate