Marrakech

5. Gardens of Marrakech

Hail a caleche and enjoy the peace and soft afternoon light in one of several gardens, which say as much about the city's history as its monuments do. The city's gardens may not be as splendid as they were 100 years ago, but they still offer a great escape from the bustle of the medina.

The jardin Majorelle is a beautifully manicured oasis garden

Colourful flowers in the Hotel Mamounia gardens.


From its creation by the Almohades in the 11th century until the 1920s, Marrakech was a garden city two-thirds of the medina was given over to gardens and orchards. Some olive and fig trees and vines have survived the spread of the medina, but street names are often the only reminder of former green spaces. However, the future looks greener as new owners are restoring the gardens of many rinds, while Moroccan and foreign organizations are revamping and replanting the gardens.
Marrakchis tend to be particularly fond of gardens with perfumed flowers, fruit trees, water and shade, as they see gardens as an earthly reflection of paradise. In summer, many families shelter from the relentless midday sun in one of the gardens, or head for their relative cool in the evening.

Tranquil Waters

Outside the city walls, some splendid gardens and green spaces have survived. Largest of all is the Aguedal Garden (Jardin Agdal), created by the 12th-century Almohad sultan Abd el-Moumen and enlarged by the Saadians. The kings and their court held lavish parties in the shade of these huge olive groves and near the large, tranquil tanks (reservoirs) filled with water from the Ourika River. The main reservoir is Sahraj el-Hana (Tank of Health), beside the beautiful 19th-century pavilion of Dar el-Hana with superb views from the terrace over the Atlas Mountains. It is hard to believe that, in 1873, Sultan Mohammed IV drowned in this tank when his boat capsized. Another pavilion is the Dar el-Beida, a royal palace that's closed when the king is in residence (this is usually during the winter).

Pavilioned in Splendour

Also built by the Almohads, but rebuilt by the Alaouites in the 19th century, are the Menara Gardens (Jardin de la Menara). Mohammed IV constructed an elegant green-tiled pavilion overlooking the large water basin and set in a cypress garden surrounded by olive groves. Walk around the reservoir to see the great. reflection of the pavilion in the water, or stroll in the shade of the endless olive groves.

Swaying Branches

The Almoravids established the vast palm grove of the Palmeraie, originally covering 13,000ha and planted with more than 150,000 trees. The circuit (22km) in the groves was a popular excursion from the centre but, although it is still well worth seeing, the grove has seriously dwindled partly due to disease, but mainly because land has been developed for hotels and villas.


Above: The vibrant blue of Majorelle's house was inspired by the French workers' overalls

Rooms With a View

Another well-established garden is the Jardin de la Mamounia, now part of the Hotel La Mamounia. The park belonged to the 18th-century Prince Moulay Mamoun and flaunts splendid palm, guava, orange and lemon trees, as well lush bougainvillea, olive trees and a rose garden.

French Fancies

No less impressive is the Jardin Majorelle, planted between 1922 and 1962 by the French painter Jacques Majorelle (1886-1962). Against a background of bright blue walls he created a fabulous, unusual garden of cacti, giant bamboos and slender palms.
After his death the garden was neglected until it was bought and restored by the French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent, who lives next door.

TAKING A BREAK

The Hotel La Mamounia's terrace is ideal for a drink or dinner. Less expensive is the small cafeteria of the Menara Gardens, or you could bring a picnic.

Jardin Agdal

182 C1
* 8km from town on the Fes road
º All the time
v Bus 1 from Djemaa el-Fna
I Free