Top: Lovely Essaouira has inspired many writers and artists.
This charming blue-and-white city is where Arab, Berber, African and
European influences merge happily. It is a place out of time, seemingly
running its own course at its own rhythm. The frantic bustle of the
fishing harbour contrasts starkly with the laid-back atmosphere in the
medina. Essaouira's beauty has long attracted and inspired writers and
artists. Add to this the alizee, a forceful wind blowing from the
Atlantic (Sawiris, the city's inhabitants, say that it blows away the
bad spirits and also crowds of tourists) and it is hard not to fall in
love with Essaouira.
Formerly called Magador, Essaouira looks older than it is. Although
originally settled by Phoenicians, today's city was built in 1764 by
Sultan Mohammed hen Abdallah. Designed by French architect Theodore
Cornut, it was called "es Saouira". the "well drawn".
Out to Sea
The liveliest part of town is the fishing harbour, especially in the
late afternoon when the boats come back. The fishermen's wives have the
first pick: the rest of the incredible variety of fish is then sold by
auction - a colourful spectacle. On the south side or the port is a
shipyard where boats are constructed in the traditional way.
The harbour is protected by the L-shaped Skala du Port, the port bastion
with two towers
A Dramatic Setting
The port is reached from the city through the 18th-century Porte de la
Marine, whose stairway leading up the walls of the Skala du Port offers
great views over the town. The American actor and director Orson Welles
filmed several scenes of his acclaimed Othello (1952) here. The Skala de
la Ville is an impressive sea bastion with a collection of European
bronze cannons on the top, and wide views of the ocean crashing into the
rocks. Underneath are the workshops of the carpenters who work mainly
with thuja (thuya) wood from evergreen coniferous trees. Near by, the
small Musée Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah has pictures of old Essaouira and
displays of marquetry and costumes.
The Gnaoua
Traditionally, the Gnaoua people, descendants of slaves from Mali and
Senegal, were healers and musicians, whose music was reputed to exorcise
evil spirits. On religious festivals they hold a lila, when their drums,
castanets and flutes send participants into a trance.
Nowadays you are more likely to see them performing on café-terraces,
with swirling strings of cowrie shells on their hats. In Essaouira
several Gnaoua draw on these traditions as subjects for their colourful,
almost naive paintings. The most famous Gnaouan painter is Mohammed
Tabal, whose works are on show in Galerie Frederic Damgaard.
Lovingly Crafted
The souks, with some excellent crafts, spread from here to the
mellah (Jewish quarter). The town always had a large Jewish community
who acted as intermediaries between the Muslim sultan and foreign
powers. Only a dozen or so members of the community still live here, a
far cry
from 8,000 to 9,000 in the 19th century.
On either side of avenue Mohammed Zerktouni is the new Souk Djedid, with
the spice and fish market on one
side and the grain and jewellery market on the other. At the harbour end
of the same street, several galleries sell the work of Essaouiri
artists, the best of which is Galerie Frederic Damgaard, owned by a
Danish expat who encourages Gnaoua painters.
Windy City
The city's splendid beach stretches for several kilometres, but the
constant wind makes it better for windsurfing than swimming or
sunbathing.
Opposite town are the Iles Purpuaires, named after the purple dye - the
colour of choice of Roman emperors - made from the shells of the native
murex (a tropical marine mollusc). The largest island, Ile de Mogador,
has a small harbour, fort and mosque. The islands were declared a nature
reserve as they are the only breeding ground of Eleonora's falcon (Falco
elconorae).
TAKING A BREAK
Have a mint tea in place Moulay el-Hassan or in the Hotel Riad
el-Medina. For lunch try
Taros, with views over the harbour from its terrace, or browse in
its library. Or be adventurous and have a grilled fish snack (left) at
the stalls just outside the harbour.
Essaouira
Ý 182 A1
* Tourist office: Syndicat
d'Initiative, rue du Caire
( (04) 4415080
v Regular buses from
Marrakech, Casablanca and
Agadir
Musée Sidi Mohammed ben Ahdallah
* derb Laalouj
º Wed-Thu, Sat-Mon
8:30-noon, 2:30-6:30; Fri
8:30-11:30, 3-6:30
I Moderate
Top tips The best way to get to know Essaouira is to stroll around
looking for secret passages, gorgeous gateways, picturesque alleys and
amazing riads and houses.
Spend some time in place Moulay el-Hassan watching the constant
passage of Sawiris and visitors.
Stroll along the windswept beach in the late afternoon.
The best surfing beach is Sidi Kaouki, 25km south of town.
