The splendid white city of Tetouan,
often known as "the Andalucian" or "the daughter of Granada", covers the
slopes of Jebel Dersa and overlooks the fertile Martil Valley and the
dark rocky mass of the Rif Mountains. The elegant city appears Hispanic
at first sight, but it is influenced equally by the traditions and
culture of the Berber tribes from the surrounding Rif. Some people claim
the name Tetouan comes from the Berber word Tit'ta'ouin (the springs),
which feed the city's many gardens and fountains.
The elegant mosque of Sidi Saidi, a 13th-century saint who was buried at
the same time as the city was founded
Tetouan was founded in the 15th century by the military commander Sidi
el-Mandari and a group of Muslims and Jews who were fleeing Spain alter
the fall of Granada. Soon after his death, el-Mandaris wife Fatima
became the leader of the much-feared corsairs, bringing great
wealth to the city, and also building most of Tetouan's ramparts in the
17th century. The refugees brought the artistic traditions of
el-Andalus, reflected in the fine houses in the medina. When the Spanish
occupied this part of Morocco in 1912, they made Tetouan the capital of
their protectorate.
The best way into the medina is through Bah er Rouah on place el-Feddan
(formerly place Hassan II), which is dominated by the royal palace.
The first street to the left of this gate leads to the charming Souk
el-Hots. over-looked by the Alcazaba fortress, with stalls selling
traditional crafts, and the nearby square of Guersa el-Kebira.
The souks around Souk el-Foki and rue de Fes are some of the nicest in
Morocco, famous for jellabas (woollen hooded cloaks), leatherwork and
woodcarving. Unesco declared the medina a World Heritage Site in 1997,
to protect its 50 or so mosques and other monuments.
To the right of Bab
er Rouah is the mellah though, as
elsewhere in Morocco, most of Tetouan's Jewish community have emigrated.
Towards Bab Okla is the Musée d'Art Marocain, an ethnographic museum
with a superb collection of textiles and embroidery.
On the oiher side of the gate, the E'cole des Métiers is worth visiting
for both the building and the Moorish craft demonstrations. Near Bab
Tout is the small Musée Archeologique with ceramics from nearby Tamuda,
and line mosaics from Lixus.
The kashah of Tetouan is still garrisoned and therefore closed to
visitors
TAKING A BREAK
Have a drink on the delightful place de I'Usaa in the medina, watching
the mix of city and country people. Patisserie Rahmouni (10 rue Yousself
ibn Tachfine) has excellent Moroccan pastries and sweets, as does
Café-Patisserie Smir (17 avenue Mohammed V ).
Ý 183 E5
v Buses from Tangier,
Chefchaouen, Fes and
Meknes
t Trains from Tangier,
Rabat, Fes and Meknes
ñ Flights from Casablanca,
Agadir and Marrakech
Musée d'Art Marocain
* Scala, near Bab el-Okla
( (03) 9970505
º Mon–Fri 8:30–noon,
2:30–6:30
I Inexpensive
Ecole des Métiers
* Scala, near Bah el-Okla
º Mon–Fri 8:30–noon,
2:30–6:30; closed school
holidays
I Free
Musée Archéologique
* 2 rue ben Hssain, off
place el-Jalaa
( (03) 9967303
º Mon–Fri 8:30–noon,
2:30–6:30
I Moderate
TETOUAN: INSIDE INFO
Top tips in the late afternoon join in the paseo, when in Spanish
tradition everyone comes out for a walk or sits on the terraces of
pedestrianised rue Mohammed V.
Beware of faux-guides, sometimes cannabis dealers from the mountains
who are notorious for being the most aggressive in the country. If you
want a guide, choose an official one recommended by the tourist office.
