Part of the ramparts of Chateau de la Cicogne are now covered by a
garden
4 Larache
The pleasant little town of Larache was a Spanish protectorate until
1956 and is still a good place to eat paella and to watch the pasco,
when the inhabitants go for a walk in the early evening. The medina has
retained plenty of character, particularly in streets descending to the
sea. Prices in the souks are lower than many places in Morocco, mostly,
because foreign tourists have not yet arrived in any numbers. The
Spanish Fortress, the Chateau de la Cicogne, overlooks a fine esplanade.
Near the 16th-century Kebibat fortress and the lively fishing harbour is
the longer esplanade of avenue, Moulay Ismail. The French writer Jean
Genet is buried in a solitary tomb near the Muslim cemetery.
Near by is Lixus, one of the oldest and almost continuously inhabited
settlements in Morocco, founded by the Phoenicians in the 12th century
BC. The ancient town boasts a Roman theatre and amphitheater, baths with
a beautiful mosaic of Neptune and the oceans, an acropolis and some
temple sanctuaries.
Ý 183 E5
* 96km south of Tangier
v Regular buses from Tangier, Asilah, Rabat, Meknes and Ksar el-Kebir
Lixus
* 5km north of Larache
v Bus 4 and 5 from Larache
º Open access
Asilah at sunset. Above: Murals in Asilah's medina, a "thank you"
from artists who participate in the August festival
5. Asilah
This beautiful, whitewashed beach resort, squeezed within ochre ramparts
and reminiscent of a Greek
island, was in fact a Spanish stronghold for a long time. At the end of
the 19th century Asilah
was ruled by a local bandit called Raissouli, whose palace, between Bab
Homar and the bastion, is open during
the international music festival in August, The town is quiet and
peaceful now, and the medina – best entered through Bab Homar, part of
the Portuguese ramparts – is a pleasant and relaxed place to stroll
around. In summer sleepy Asilah comes to life when crowds of Moroccan
families descend on its splendid white
beach.
Ý 183 E5
* 45km south of Tangier
v Buses from
Tangier, Meknes, Fes and Rabat
t Trains from Tangier, Rabat and Casablanca
6. Ceuta
The Spanish enclave of Ceuta (Sebta) on the peninsula of Monte Acho
faces Gibraltar across the strait, with mountains on both sides forming
the so-called Pillars of Hereules. Although the town was first occupied
by the Phoenicians, it has little to show for its long history. The most
obvious reminders are two baroque churches near Plaza de Africa and,
further south, the small Masco de la Legión, which offers a glimpse into
the towns Spanish- African military history. The towns duty-free shops
are a major attraction, but land border crossings are slow.
Ý 183 E5
* 40km northeast of Tangier
v Buses from Tangier, Casablanca, Tetouan and al-Hoceima
Museo de la Legión
* Paseo de Colón
º Daily 10—1:30, 4—6
I Free
7. Rif Coast
The vast, wild and remarkably beautiful Rif Mountains, more than 300km
long and 2.500m high, form the border between Europe and Africa, and
between central Morocco and the rest of North Africa. The mountain
scenery in this lawless region is spectacular, but best enjoyed from the
safety of a bus, as passengers in foreign and rented vehicles have been
robbed at knife-point or forced to buy drugs, particularly around Ketama.
Shortly after ascending the throne in 1999 King Mohammed VI earmarked
the whole Rif for serious attention and development. However, progress
has been hampered by limited access, as the mountains arc often very
close to the shore. Despite this, several tourist resorts with pleasant
beaches have already emerged along the stretch of coast-line between Ceuta and Tetouan, including Smir-Restinga. Cabo Negro and Martil
Southeast of Tetouan, the coast road climb, into the mountains and,
although the few beaches on the way – such as Oued Laou and Kaaseras –
are not as pretty and developed as those further north, they are almost
deserted. The road from al-Hoccima to Gala Iris, dotted with
tranquil little fishing villages, is wonderful.
Ý 186 A4
v Regular buses from Tetouan to al-Hoceima and Fnideq;
grands taxis to Rued Laou, Martil and Cabo Negro
The heart of Ouezzane's medina is home to many workshops of craftsmen
and artisans
8. Ouezzane
The town of Ouezzane, on the edge of the Rif Mountains, is twice sacred.
It was founded in 1727 and developed around the Zaouia of Moulay
Abdallah ben Brahim Cherif — a sherif (descendant of the Prophet
Mohammed) and founder of the Tabiya Sufi brotherhood. The Sufi influence
spread all over North Africa, and the Zaouia (tomb), with its octagonal
minaret, is still an important pilgrimage centre. The brotherhood is now
based elsewhere but the founders moussem is still held, at his zaouia
(closed to non-Muslims). The tomb of the. pious Rabbi Amrane, renowned
for his miracles, also attracts Jewish pilgrims. The old town has much
charm, while the souks (Thursday 6 am—1 pm) are famous for woven woollen
rugs.
Ý 183 E4
* 60km southwest of Chefchaouen
v Buses from Meknes, Fes and Chefchaouen
9. Al-Hoceima
Tiny and relaxed, this is the best of the Rif coast beach resorts and a
pleasant hang-out for a few days. It
tends to get overrun by holiday-makers in midsummer, but is very sleepy
for the rest of the year. The main attractions are the lovely view over
the Spanish islands of Penon de Alhucemas and the chance to swim at the
beach, plage Quemado, or nearby Asfiha beach. The road between
al-Hoccima and Chefchaouen is dramatic but dangerous.
Ý 186 A5
* 325km east of Tangier
v
Buses from Chefchaouen, Tetouan, Fes and Nador
10. Oujda
Oujda is important as one of only two border posts between Algeria and
Morocco. The country's sixth city has considerable industry and mineral
mines and is also a major agricultural centre. The main souks are
outside the old city walls, but the Souk el-Maa, where water is sold for
the gardens, is still held inside the medina. The Dar es Sebti, the
magnificent mansion of the Sebti family, is now a cultural centre. (tel:
(05) 5684404). Oujda is the perfect base to explore the spectacular Beni
Snassen Mountains (Monts de Beni Snassen), with the Gorges du Zegzel and
the Grotte du Chameau.
Ý 186 C4
* On the Algerian border
v Buses from main towns
t Trains from Casablanca, Rabat, Fes and Meknes
T
Flights from Casablanca
