Imperial Cities and Middle Atlas

1. Fes

The oldest of Morocco's imperial capitals is also the most complete Islamic city in the Arab world, and site of the ultimate medina. Built in a valley surrounded by hills, this huge and vibrant area is home to 800,000 people - a quarter of the city's population. The medina's streets and alleys may be confusing at first, but it's a great place to get lost as there are grand buildings and magnificent sights around every corner.

Moulay Idriss I founded Madinat Fas in the 790s, but it was his son Idriss II who developed it into a grand Arab city, with Muslims from Cordoba in the Andalucian quarter, Tunisian Arabs in the Kairouanese and a Jewish community. Without these foreigners' sophisticated urban culture and artistic traditions, Fes may never have developed such grandeur.

At the end of the 11th century, the Almoravid prince Youssef ben Tachfine united the two parts of the city within walls. The city flourished further under the Almohades and enjoyed its golden age in the 13th and 14th centuries under the Merenids.


Bird's eye view over Fes.

Fes el-Bali

To understand the city's complicated layout it's best to start with a panoramic overview, especially from the terrace near the crumbling Merenid Tombs or from the Borj Nord fortress, both on a hill just outside the medina. The fortress also houses a small armoury museum. The main entrance to the old medina of Fes el-Bali is Bab Boujeloud, a gate built in 1913. Near by is Dar Batha, a beautiful Moorish building with a tranquil courtyard, where you can see one of Morocco's most interesting collections of popular arts, including carpets, zellij work, outstanding ceramics and calligraphy. Two main lanes lead from the gate to the Souk el-Attarine, the Talaa es Seghira and the more interesting Talaa el-Kebira. Here you'll find one of the country's most magnificent monuments: the grand Medersa Bou Inania, built in the 14th century by Merenid sultan Abou Inan, who had a reputation for being more interested in sex and murder than religion. Legend says that the religious leaders of the Qairaouine Mosque (see opposite) wanted Abou lnan to build his medersa on a rubbish dump if he wanted to build one at all. The sultan was then determined that his medersa would be more beautiful and more important than the Qairaouine Mosque. And his wish came true, at least for a short time, when his simple yet ornate construction became Fes's most important religious building. The skillful stucco, ceiling and carving remain well preserved.


Fascinating tanneries and bustling souks sum up the best of Fes

Opposite the medersa is Bou Inania's amazing waterclock (under restoration), which kept perfect time despite no one ever discovering exactly how. Further along the street are several fondouhs (caravanserais), of which the city was supposed to have over 200. Along rue Cherabliyin, several stalls sell reputedly the best babouches (slippers) in Morocco. The Souk el-Attarine (spice market), the focus of the old medina, is where the most precious goods were sold, such as fine cloth, silk thread and jewellery. The grand Qairaouine Mosque, founded in the 9th century by Fatima el-Fihriya, the pious daughter of a wealthy Fes merchant, was the largest in Morocco until the opening of Casablanca's Hassan II Mosque in the early 1990s. It also claims to be the oldest university in the world and still plays a leading role in the country's religious life. For non-Muslims it is hard to see the mosque, its exterior hidden behind surrounding buildings, the fine interior off limits. Also closed to non-Muslims is one of the city's holiest shrines, the Zaouia and Tomb or Moulay Idriss II. Nearby place en Nejjarine has the most beautiful of the city's fountains. The square is dominated by the 18th-century Nejjarine fondouk, with its small woodwork museum that houses well-displayed, beautifully made traditional objects, carvings and tools. The 14th-century Medersa el-Attarine approaches the Bou lnania in beauty and refinement of decoration and also has great views from the rooftop.

Near place Seffarine is the colourful Souk Sabbighin (dyers' souk), and on the other side are the pungent but fascinating tanneries, best seen from the rooftops.


The huge, ornate entrance gates to the King's palace in Fes el-Jedid

Andalous Quarter

Although the residential Andalucian Quarter has no souks or major sights, being away from the tourist area, it's somehow more authentically Fassi. Highlights here include the Andalncian Mosque with its elegant courtyard. It was built in the 9th century by Myriem, the sister of Fatima el-Fihriya (founder of the Qairaouine Mosque), but was largely rebuilt by the Almohads in the 13th century. The 14th-century Medersa es Sahrij, a crumbling jewel of the Merenid period, is still partly used to accommodate Islamic students.

Fes el-Jedid

New Fes is not new at all, but was built by the Merenids in the 13th century. Like Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakech, Petit Meehouar square was the playground for assorted performers until it was closed for repairs in the 1970s. These were never really finished, so it has not reopened. It is flanked on one side by the royal palace (closed to the public), one of the most sumptuous in Morocco.
The Grande Rue des Merenides cuts through the mellah (Jewish quarter) of synagogues, cemeteries, abandoned 18th- and 19th-century houses, and a few less touristy souks. Most of Morocco's Jewish population left for Israel after its creation in 1948, and particularly after the Suez Crisis in 1956 when there were strong anti-Jewish feelings throughout the Arab world. The Frenchhbuilt Ville Nouvelle has hotels and restaurants but otherwise little of interest.


The Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II is a pilgrimage site, particularly for pregnant women and boys who are about to be circumcised

TAKING A BREAK

Enjoy the superb views from the beautiful garden of the hilltop Palais Jamal hotel. The cafe-terrace of the Musee Nejjarine is another great place, as is the Fes Hadara (22 Sidi Ahmed Chaouki; tel: (05) 5740292) with its large garden.