The well-preserved Roman town of
Volubilis, surrounded by lush countryside at the foot of Jebel Zerhoun,
is one of the finest and most romantic archaeological sites in the
country. The Berbers call it "Oualili" after the oleander flowers
covering the nearby, and usually dry, riverbed. A guided tour of the
highlights usually takes about an hour, but it's certainly worth
spending a few hours strolling among the monuments.
Through the Ages
The original Berber settlement was taken by Caligula in AD 45. As the
Roman Empire's most remote outpost, the city flourished during the 2nd
and 3rd centuries. But the Berbers returned at the end of the 3rd
century and by the time the Arabs arrived in the 7th century there was a
mixed population of Latin-speaking Berbers, Jews and Syrians. Volubilis
declined after 786 when Moulay Idriss founded his capital in
nearby Fes. but it remained in good repair until Moulay Ismail
plundered the city's marble for his new settlement at Meknes. The ruins
suffered more damage as a result of the 1755 Lisbon earthquake.
The complex straddles the Fertassa River, with the entrance on one side
and most of the sights on the other. There are several Roman villas to
explore, all divided into public and private rooms and now named after
the mosaics found in them. The largest is the House of Orpheus, with
fine mosaics of Orpheus with his lyre, of dolphins and of Amphitrite,
wife of Neptune and goddess of the sea. Next door are the Gallienus
Baths, which extended over 1,OOOsq m.
The Forum is dominated by the impressive arcaded wall of the 3rd-century
courthouse and the raised Capitoline temple, with elegant Corinthian
columns, dedicated to jupiter, his wife juno and the goddess Minerva.
North of the Forum is the House of the Athlete and the city's largest
public baths, probably built by the Emperor Hadrian, covering over
1,500sq m. The Triumphal Arch was built in AD 217 in honour of the
Emperor Caracalla and his Syrian mother Julia Domna. It was once topped
with a six-horse chariot and water would cascade from carved nymphs into
marble basins below. More villas line the Decumanus Maximus road, at the
end of which is the Gordian Palace and the House of Venus
with splendid mosaics, where the beautiful busts of the Berber king juba
II and Cato were found.
Grand mosaic floors are still in situ
TAKING A BREAK
Corbeille Heurie, a small cafeteria-restaurant, offers cool drinks and
good tagines. Out of summer the site and surrounding countryside are
perfect for a picnic.
View of the residential area of Volubilis, still set in the
countryside
Below: The impressive Triumphal Arch is built in local Zerhoun stone
Volubilis
Ý 183 F4
* 31km north of Meknes
( (05) 5544103
º Daily 8-6:30
v Buses from Meknes to Moulay-Idriss, then grand taxi to Volubilis (agree
a return time)
I Moderate
VOLUBILIS: INSIDE INFO
Top tips The site measures just under 800m by 600m and offers almost
no
shade, so wear sun protection and bring enough water.
Visit early morning, late afternoon or dusk to
avoid the midday sun
and tour groups, and to get a warmer light on the stones.
The most important sights are well labelled and arrows point out a
circuit.
