The Tizi n'Test pass lies on a road that cuts through the High Atlas
between Asni and Taroudannt. As well as being an amazing feat of
engineering, the road is also one of the most spectacular in Morocco.
Ibn Toumerl
After studying in the Orient, the 12th-century Berber Mohammed ibn
Toumert returned to Morocco convinced that the country's Islamic faith
needed purifying. When he forced the king's sister off her horse because
she was not veiled, he was banished from Marrakech and set up a base in
Tin Mal, where he declared himself the Mahdi or "Chosen One". In exile
he and his lieutenant Abd el-Moumen preached to the Berbers, formed a
religious and military force-the Almohad or "Unitarian" movement and
went on to conquer Morocco and southern Spain.
As a main access to the south or the country, the highway has played a
significant role in Morocco's history. Before the road was built, the
mountain Berbers could easily close the pass and block the passage to
the south. But since the French opened the Tizi n'Test in November 1928,
the south and the mountains have become much more accessible.
The Tizi n'Test starts at Asni, a pleasant little town in a
fruit-growing area and with an interesting Saturday souk. This is the
turn-off point for Imlil and hikes in the High Atlas. After Asni the
landscape gets increasingly dramatic - the mountains become wilder and
more barren as you climb, and there is often snow on the peaks.
Ouirgane, a peaceful village 16km away with a few comfortable hotels
serving good food, makes an excellent hiking base. The road follows the
Nfiss River, which is full of trout in spring.
At the beginning of the 20th century the Tizi n'Test was controlled by
the powerful Goundafa family, who built several kasbahs along the way.
These include the privately owned one at Agadir n'Gouj, just before the
Almohad Great Mosque of Tin Mal that rises high up above the Tizi n'Test
on a mountain slope. Looking more like a fortress than a mosque, it was
built by Abd el-Moumen in around 1153 as a cult centre for his leader
lbn Toumert.
About 8km further south is the 19th-century kasbah of Tagoundaft perched
on a steep rock. Another 22km from here is the actual col (pass) of the
Tizi n'Test which, at 2,092m, offers panoramic views over
Toubkal and the Sous Valley. Once past the col the road descends
steeply, droppping about 1,600m in less than 30km. Along the road,
picturesque hamlets overlook cultivated terraces.
TAKING A BREAK
Cafe La Belle Vue (1km past the col) really does have a great view and
serves delicious tea and snacks.
For something more elaborate try Chez Momo in Ouirgane, but book in
advance (tel: (04) 4485704)
Ý 184 C3
* Between Asni and Taroudannt
v Buses from Marrakech
Great Mosque of Tin Mal
* 40km from Ouirgane
º Sat-Thu; caretaker will open on demand
I Inexpensive (plus tip)
The valleys are dotted with small Berber villages
TIZI N'TEST: INSIDE INFO
Top tips From November to April the road can be blocked by snow. Signs
in Asni, Marrakech and Tahanoute usually announce road closures, but
check with tourist offices in Marrakech or Taroudannt beforehand.
The best way to see it is by
driving yourself, but experience of
handling mountain roads is essential.
Avoid driving around midday in summer as cars can overheat.
Fill up before you leave as there are
no petrol stations between Asni
and Ouled Berrhill.
