The Dades River drains off the peaks
of the High Atlas and cuts a deep and dramatic gorge before it flows,
more gently, into the Draa River. Most visitors follow the river
upstream, from Ouarzazate to Tinerhir, taking in Berber settlements,
surprising oases and, best of all, the spectacular gorges of Dades and
Todra.
The Dades Valley (Vallee du Dades) is often exaggeratedly described as
the "road of a thousand kasbahs"; however, several kasbahs along the
route are both beautiful and intriguing. Along most of the route the
river is hardly visible above the ground and the P32 road follows the
plain, which is flanked dramatically by the High Atlas and Jebel Sarhro
on either side. Oases appear like mirages in this harsh and desolate
landscape. This is certainly true for Skoura (30km east of Ouarzazate),
one of the most beautiful oases, with lush vegetation and kasbahs
appearing through the trees. At the entrance to this 17th-century oasis
is the Kasbah de Ben Moro, now a fine hotel. Behind this you'll find
Amerdihil -
this is the most extravagant and impressive of all the Glaoui kasbahs.
Directly across the river is the grand kasbah of Dar Ait Sidi el-Mati.
The long line of kasbahs along the Dades River reveals an amazing
variety of features, shapes and decorations.
Another 50km on is the town of el-Kelaa M'Gouna, famous for its fields
of pink Rosa damascina. About 4,000 tonnes are collected annually and
distilled into rose water for cooking or essential oils for perfume. A
rose festival is held each year in May or June. The town has a Wednesday
souk, but rose water is always on sale in local shops and at the
kasbah-like factory. About 1.5km further along the main road is the
hilltop town of Boulmane de Dades. This makes a perfect base for
exploring the Jebel Sarhro region of volcanic peaks, gorges and
picturesque Berber villages, and the Vallee des Oiseaux a birdwatchers'
paradise offering a wealth of species that include desert larks, eagle
owls and sand grouse. The town is also the gateway to the Gorge du
Dades.
The route to the gorge, which veers off the main road, is spectacular in
itself, lined with kasbahs and ksour amid luxuriant gardens. But the
gorge, with its high limestone cliffs and strange rock formations, is
definitely worth a detour. The kasbahs, many of which are still
inhabited, come in all colours from chalk-white and earthy-reds to dark
green.
The area of Tamnalt, 3km from Boulmane en route to the gorges, is also
called the "Hill of Human Bodies" because of its bizarre rock
formations. Further on, the river forms deep canyons past the bridge of
Ait Oudinar. From here it's only possible to cross over to the Todra
Gorge by four-wheel-drive. Otherwise you have to return to Boulmane de
Dades and continue to Tinerhir to visit the extensive palmeraies
and the Todra Gorge .
TAKING A BREAK
The Chems Hotel in Boulmane serves good simple food on a terrace. The
Auberge Chez Pierre in a pise building near pont d'Ait Oudinar (tel:
(04) 4830267) offers exceptional food.
The setting sun turns the rocks of the Dades Gorge a deep golden orange
THE DADES VALLEY: INSIDE INFO
Top tips You'll need a rented car (preferably four-wheel-drive) if you
want to tryout a few pistes. An ordinary car will do for the main
sights. You can rent vehicles from the local hotels, which also organise
guides for the more difficult treks in the area .
In palmeraies such as Skoura you need to walk and the gardens are
vast: to save time and effort it may be useful to hire a local guide .
The best way to visit the valley around the Dades Gorge is by
walking
along the river.
