Standing on the arid Sous plains, the salmon-pink houses of Tiznit are
enclosed by 6km of red mud ramparts. The town was founded at the end of
the 19th century by Sultan Moulay Hassan, who brought in the Jewish
craftsmen who made Tiznit famous for its fine silver jewellery, often
regarded as the best in
Morocco. Both traditional and contemporary styles can be found in the
jewellers' souk. The minaret of the Grand Mosque is strewn with little
perches, jutting out of the brickwork to provide resting places for the
souls of the dead as they ascend to paradise. The style is unusual for
Morocco, but is fairly common south of the Sahara. Near the mosque is
the tomb of Lalla Tiznit, a prostitute who reformed and became extremely
pious. Legend has it that when she was martyred, God created the pool
across the street, which is rather optimistically known as the Source
Bleue.
Ý 184 A2
* 90km south of Agadir
v Buses from Tata, Ifni, Agadir, Guelmim, Casablanca and Tafraoute
6. Taroudannt
At the heart of the fertile Sous Valley, this is the main market town in
the area, renowned for its
crafts - Berber jewellery, marble animal carvings and other sculpture,
and heavy woollen cloaks and jellabas. Taroudannt's two souks, the Souk
Arabe Artisanal and the Marche Berbere, are among the most relaxed in
Morocco (Thursday and Sunday), with fewer touts and less pressure to
buy. The town flourished during the 16th century when the Saadian kings
made it their first capital before moving to Marrakech. They built the
well-preserved, ochre city ramparts around the kasbah, but the rest or
the walls and bastions date from the 18th century. The most pleasant way
to admire them is by caleche, particularly at dusk or in moonlight. The
kasbah, a village within the town, contains the winter palace of the
Saadians, the ruins of a fortress built by Moulay Ismail and the
wonderlul Palais Salam hotel.
Ý 184 B3
* 80km east of Agadir
v Buses from Agadir, Ouarzazate, Marrakech and Essaouira
Taroudannt has a more African feel than the other cities in Morocco
Riding, walking or driving along the Ourika Valley are great ways to
explore the nature of this region
7. Ourika Valley (Vallee d'Ounka)
Do as the Marrakchis when temperatures soar in the city, and escape to
the gorgeous and lush Ourika Valley. You'll find country houses, small
hotels, and numerous cafe-terraces, from where you can admire the views
and enjoy the cooler climate. At km34 on the S513 road from Marrakech is
Tnine l'Ourika village, which has an excellent Monday souk. The Ourika
River curves through a deep-cut valley dotted
with small mud-brick douar (villages) The road has superb viewpoints and
follows the river up to Selli Fatma, ideal for a walk, a picnic and a
dip in one of its waterfalls.
Ý 184 C4
* Tourist office: valley entrance, route S513, km32 (Ourika)
and fax (04) 4484858
v Buses, minibuses, grands taxis from Marrakech
8. Oukaimeden
On the slopes of Jebel Oukaimeden, at 2,650m Morocco's premier ski
resort is also the highest in Africa. The snow varies annually, but
there can be good piste and off-piste skiing from mid-December to April.
A ski-lift runs to the top of the mountain (3,273m) and guides are
available for cross-country trips and skiing on other slopes. "Ouka" is
also a summer resort, providing respite from the heat in Marrakech, or
as a base for trekking in the surrounding area and Toubkal National
Park.
Ý 184 C4
* 74km south of Marrakech
v Private car or taxi
On Location at Atlas Studios
The Last Temptation of Christ (1988): controversial, but earning an
Oscar for director Martin Scorsese and starring Willem Dafoe.
Kundun (1997): Martin Scorsese's biopic of the Dalai Lama.
Gladiator (2000): Ridley Scott, starring Russell Crowe and some great
effects.
9. Telouet
The sleepy village of Telouet is overlooked by its magnificent crumbling
Glaoui kasbah, built in the early 20th century. This remote spot now
seems an unlikely place to build a fortress, but before the construction
of the Tizi n'Tichka in 1928 it was an important caravan
stop between Ouarzazate and Marrakech. For three years, 300 workers
sculpted the walls and the ceilings of the headquarters of the powerful
Glaoui brothers, but they were abandoned in 1956. The labyrinthine
buildings are now fast melting back into the red earth, and today only a
few of the sumptuous apartments are open to visitors.
Ý 185 D4
* 21 km east off the Tizi n'Tichka
º Glaoui kasbah: no opening hours, but the caretaker is usually around
during the day
v Bus from Marrakech
I Free (tip the caretaker)
10. Ouarzazate
At the foot of the High Atlas, this is a good base for exploring the
Sahara, the kasbahs and river valleys. This modern town, developed in
the 1920s as a French garrison and administrative centre, is less
picturesque than other Moroccan cities, which might explain why the
anticipated tourism boom has not quite happened, in spite of its luxury
facilities. However, the town's only sight - the Taourirt kasbah - is
one of the most beautiful in Morocco. This sumptuous residence of the
Glaoui family, built entirely in pise, has remarkable decoration, but
neglect means that only the courtyard and some very ornate rooms in the
harem can be visited. There are great views over the kasbah from the
terrace, and the Centre Artisanal opposite sells good-quality crafts.
The Atlas Studios on the other side of town have earned Ouarzazate a
reputation as the Hollywood of the desert. A rather surreal sight
because of the grand film sets in a wilderness, the studios can usually
be visited via the Oscar Salam Hotel inside the compound.
Ý 185 D3
* 204km southeast of Marrakech
Tourist Office
* avenue Mohammed V, near the post office
( (04) 4882458
Taourirt Kasbah
* avenue Mohammed V, 1.5km from the centre
º Daily 8-6:30
I Free
Centre Artisanal
* Opposite Taourirt kasbah
º Mon-Fri 8:30-noon, 3-6:30, Sat 8:30-noon, Sun 10-noon
Atlas Studios
* 6.5km out of town on the Marrakech road
( (04) 4882212
º Daily 8:30-6:30
Ouarzazate has more hotels and modern buildings than most southern
towns, but traditional life continues in some corners
11. Zagora
The town has become famous for a signpost that reads "Tombouctou 52
jours" or 52 days by camel to Timbuctoo in Mali. It was from here that
the Saadians from Arabia began their conquest of Morocco in the 16th
century. And it was from here that they later began the adventure that
led them to conquer Timbuctoo and control the Saharan gold trade. The
large administrative town has little charm, but it does have a good souk
on Wednesday and Sunday lt also makes an excellent base for venturing
into the sand dunes near M'Hamid, aboul 30km south, and Jebel Zagora
commands superb views over the DraaValley, the Amazrou palmeraies and
the dunes.
Ý 185 E3
* 168km southeast of Ouarzazate
v Buses from Ouarzazate and Mhamid
12. Tamegroute
This intriguing village is an old religious centre famous for its Zaouia
Naciri, a Koranic school founded by Mohammed ben Nassir in the 17th
century. Its important library of Islamic manuscripts includes Korans
written on gazelle skin. The school and library are open to visitors,
but the sanctuary. containing ben Nassir's tomb is closed to
non-Muslims. Pilgrims suffering from mental problems and hypertension
stay at the zauoia hoping for a miraculous cure. The village is
interesting in itself, and its kasbahs and ksour connectcd by dark
passages are well worth exploring. The potters' co-operative has some
archaic kilns and produces some wonderfully simple green and brown
pottery, colours obtained from local manganese and copper.
Ý 185 E3
* 22km south of Zagora
v Bus from Zagora
Zaouia Naciri
* Off the main road
º Daily 8-noon, 2-6
I Donations welcome
Potters' Co-operative
* Off the main road
º Mon-Fri 7-6:30
13. Mhamid
That Mhamid was once an important stop on trans-Saharan caravan routes
is best illustrated by its population of Berbers, Saharan Arabs and
people thought to originate from Sudan. The modern town is small, with a
colourful Monday souk. The real interest lies in the surrounding sand
dunes, which should only be visited by four-wheel-drive and with a
guide, or by camel. The Tuareg owner of the Hotel Sahara (tel. (04)
4848009) organises excursions for one or more days.
Ý 185 E2
* 40km from the Algerian border
v Daily bus from Tinfou and Zagora (94km)
14. Tinerhir
Charming Tinerhir overlooks magnificent palm groves, some of the largest
and most beautiful in Morocco, alongside the Todra River. The palmeraies
belong to the Ait Atta tribe, many of whom live in small kasbahs
scattered around the palm groves and orchards. The centre is dominated
by a ruined but still impressive Glaoui kasbah (officially closed). The
town is noted for its ironwork and has a lively souk on Tuesday. The
dramatic Todra Gorge is only 15km away and can be reached by walking,
cycling or driving.
Ý 185 E4
* 70km northeast of Ouarzazate
v Buses from Ouarzazate and er Rachidia
Tourist Office
* Avenue Mohammed V
Marathon des Sables
Every year a long-distance run is held in the desert around Merzouga and
Foum Zguid, when hundreds of runners try to cover 229km in six days. Not
surprisingly, the race is considered to be the toughest of
its kind. Merzouga sand dunes at sunrise
"Blue Men" have an almost mythical status as the nomads who inhabit the
desert.
15. Erfoud
This small settlement on the edge of the Ziz Valley was built in the
1930s by the French Foreign Legion. The town itself has little to offer
besides a Saturday souk, but is the departure point for excursions to
the Tafilalt region of vast palmeraies, remote Berber ksar and the sand
dunes of Merzouga. Every October many visitors and several Berber
tribes gather in Erfoud for the Date Festival, which features a large
souk, camel races, folk dancing and the election of the Date Queen.
Nearby Rissani is the birthplace of Moulay Ali Cherif, founder of the
Alaouite dynasty, whose tomb remains an important pilgrimage site
(closed to non-Muslims).
Ý 186 A1
v Buses from er Rachidia and Rissani
16. Merzouga
The road from Erfoud to Merzouga requires a four-wheel-drive and should
not be attempted during a sandstorm, which can happen all year round.
This village has a few hotels and restaurants, but its attraction is the
surrounding desert, and the nearby Erg Chebbi dunes are truly
spectacular and stretch for several kilometres. At 150m high, the dune
outside the Hotel Merzouga (1km before the village) is the tallest in
Morocco. It's an interesting place: Berbers swear by a sand bath for
longevity, being buried up to the neck in sand in midsummer.
Local hotels will organise activities from sunset camel rides to several
days of trekking.
